How to Make a Stunning DIY Epoxy Dining Table at Home
For this project, I wanted to use as many natural and self-constructed pieces and materials as possible. I wanted this table to be strong and durable enough to last for many years, and I wanted it to have special meaning to our entire family. It needed to be not only pleasing to the eye, but to also evoke special family memories every time we sat at it.
I have always loved the look of furniture where the tree trunk used has been cut very close to the ground, sometimes below. By doing this, you capture the unique character of the trunk as it flares out toward the roots.
I needed 4 special trees for this of equal diameter size that were straight and had that flared look at the bottom. I didn’t want to destroy any live healthy trees just for the bottom three feet, so I set out on our North Idaho property.
It really didn’t take long for me to locate four suitable LodgePole Pine trees of equal size that had been blown over in recent storms, exposing their entire root structures. I measured up about four feet, loaded them onto a small trailer, and hauled them back to the house. I then started up the pressure washer and thoroughly sprayed off loose dirt, rock and bark. Now I could see and measure where I wanted the bottom cut. After the bottom cut was made, I figured out how high I wanted the table to sit, measured, marked and then cut off the excess on all four legs.
My plan was to build a 2×4 frame for the table top to rest on, so with this in mind, I notched the tops of all four legs appropriately. Now that the final cuts were made, I then started debarking, further cleaning and lightly sanding the legs. The legs were done for now, and I could then start on the table. I based the shape and dimensions off a full sheet of ⅝ inch plywood that I fastened to the 2×4 frame. This was to help strengthen and support the actual table top.
For the table top, I took my chainsaw mill to some public land nearby and found a couple large Ponderosa Pine trees that had already fallen.
As I started to mill the logs into slabs I discovered that they had died from disease and bug infestation, which gave the slabs some neat characteristics such as holes from insects boring through, as well as shades of gray, pink, and even light blues from disease and early stages of decomposition. After milling a sufficient amount of slabs, I took them home and let them dry for a bit.
I then measured and cut them down to the right length and width so they would fit in my small planer. I made sure to save the nicer live edges for the perimeter of the table. Once I had all pieces planned, around ten in total, I arranged them up on the plywood. One by one I glued the boards together until I had one solid pine table top.
The next step was to sand off the excess dried glue from the joints and to square up the table top. I then fastened the outer live edge with glue and Craig-style screws from underneath. This turned out good, but I had a pretty visible seam and knew I wanted something more that would add a little more decor, inlay.
Looking online, I found inlay strips to be rather pricey, so I decided to make my own. I had some logs from an eighty year old maple My wife’s grandparents owned, so I cut them down into strips, as well as some black walnut from previous wood projects. I sandwiched the maple between two walnut strips and made roughly 20-30 of these.
I then used a long piece of square bar as a straight edge and clamped it to the table top so my router would line up with the seam. I then set my depth and slowly made my way around the perimeter of the table, routing in the groove for my inlay. With that complete, I simply applied glue to the inlay strips and carefully tapped them into the groove and then sanded smooth once the glue dried.
Now it was time for the design on top. My wife and I liked the lazy river design, so I just free-hand drew a river on the top of the table the best I could and cut it out with a jigsaw. After sanding the edges I then fastened the table top to the plywood beneath with wood glue and screws from under the table. Once the glue was dried, I applied a bead of silicone around the entire inner perimeter of the lazy river so that nothing could work its way between the table top and the plywood.
With more small lengths of live edge boards and inlay strips, I built skirting which I fastened just under the table to help hide the frame and joints as well as add a bit more curb appeal.
Now the fun part. Our family had collected and brought home several bags of beautiful sand, rocks, seashells, small driftwood and other fun little keepsakes from our most memorable family vacations to Hawaii and the Oregon coast. I got the kids involved by first lining the bottom of the lazy river with the sand, followed by some of the bigger rocks we had found. I might add, for over a month, I was polishing all these rocks in a tumbler to get them as shiny as possible. I found this to not be needed, however, as the final epoxy somehow canceled out that brilliant shine I had worked so hard on.
After the large rocks were placed, we then filled in the remaining space with smaller rocks, seashells and pieces of small driftwood until the entire river was filled, but not protruding above the table top. It was now time to finish.
Now that the table was completely assembled and sanded, it was time for the finish. I started by coating the entire table and legs with sanding sealer. Now it was time for the most nerve racking part of the entire build, the epoxy.
I love the look and durability of table top epoxy, but working with it on such a large project was no picnic. For this project I used Total Boat epoxy. It was the most affordable, and worked great, so long as I did my part in following directions.
I first had to mix up small amounts and literally paint it on the live edges, skirting and legs. It was difficult getting it on before it started to set up while watching for and correcting runs. Once this part was done I then ran tape around the entire outer edge of the table a couple times, making sure the tape stood above the surface of the table by at least a quarter of an inch. This allowed me to spread the epoxy out to the edges without it spilling over and creating more runs, messes and headaches. I then had to guestimate and mix up a good amount of epoxy to fill the lazy river and the rest of the table top.
I first gently poured it over the rocks, filling the lazy river and then worked my way out over the rest of the table to the edges.
There were a couple things that made it difficult for me.
First, I should have glued the small pieces of driftwood down. They kept rising to the top of the epoxy, becoming exposed. I had to constantly push them down until the epoxy thickened and set up enough to actually hold them down.
The second was my own mistake. I didn’t mix up enough to completely cover the table the first time, so I had to rush and mix up a second batch. In my hurry, I didn’t mix the resin and hardener thoroughly enough and it didn’t set up hard, nor did it adequately adhere to the table top. I had to quickly rip that layer off, and lay down a third and final layer to finish the job. Thankfully, this epoxy is very forgiving and hides many flaws.
Once the final pour was made and I had sufficient epoxy, I spent the next half hour or so waving my heat gun back and forth over the table, drawing out and popping air bubbles. This really ‘cleaned’ up the epoxy and made it look like clear clean glass.
Once the epoxy work was completed I was able to take a big sigh of relief and left it to cure overnight. The next morning, I removed the tape around the edge and that was it. It had cured hard, strong and beautiful.
Although the table top, skirting and plywood are one piece, I didn’t fasten it any way to the frame beneath. I knew it would be too heavy to move. Instead, the frame is bolted to the legs and the tabletop is simply resting on top. It’s heavy enough that it doesn’t slide or move, but not so heavy that it can’t be moved separately from the frame and legs.
DIY Epoxy Dining Table: Frequently Asked Questions
What materials do I need to make a DIY epoxy dining table?
You’ll need a wooden slab or planks, epoxy resin, hardener, a measuring cup, mixing sticks, gloves, a heat gun or torch, sandpaper, and a sealant. Make sure you have a well-ventilated space.
How do I prepare the wood for an epoxy table?
Sand the surface to make it smooth. Remove any dust or debris. You might want to fill any cracks or holes with wood filler before applying the epoxy.
How much epoxy resin do I need?
Calculate the volume by measuring the length, width, and desired thickness. Use an epoxy calculator online to get precise measurements. Overestimating slightly is better than underestimating.
What’s the mixing ratio for epoxy resin and hardener?
Most epoxy kits provide a ratio, usually 1:1 or 2:1. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully to avoid curing issues.
How long does epoxy take to cure?
Curing times can vary based on the brand and conditions, but it typically takes 24-72 hours. Ensure it sits in a dust-free environment during this time.
Can I add pigments or dyes to epoxy?
Yes, you can add pigments, dyes, or even glow-in-the-dark powders. Just ensure they’re compatible with epoxy resin.
How do I avoid bubbles in the epoxy?
Mix the epoxy slowly to reduce the introduction of air. Use a heat gun or torch to pop bubbles that rise to the surface after pouring.
How do I apply epoxy to the wood?
Pour the mixed epoxy onto the table surface, spreading it evenly with a spatula. Work quickly, as epoxy starts to set within minutes.
Can I sand and polish the epoxy after it cures?
Yes, you can sand the cured epoxy with fine-grit sandpaper (starting around 120 grit and moving to 400 or higher). Follow with a polish to achieve a glass-like finish.
How do I maintain an epoxy dining table?
Clean with a soft cloth and mild soap. Avoid placing hot items directly on the surface, use coasters or trivets.
What are the safety precautions when working with epoxy?
Wear gloves and eye protection. Work in a well-ventilated area. Some epoxies can emit harmful fumes, so a respirator might be necessary.
Are epoxy tables food-safe?
Once fully cured, most epoxy resins are food-safe. Check the product specifications to ensure it’s safe for direct contact with food.
Can I repair scratches or damages on an epoxy table?
Minor scratches can be buffed out with polishing compound. For deeper scratches, you might need to sand and apply a fresh epoxy coating.
How much does it cost to make an epoxy dining table?
Costs vary based on the size and materials. Expect to spend anywhere from $200 to over $1,000, depending on wood type and epoxy quality.
Can I create different designs with epoxy?
Absolutely, you can create river tables, embed objects, or make abstract designs. The possibilities are only limited by your creativity and skill level.
